Marmalade madness

Joining the preserve conoscenti

Mid winter. The grass outside is crunchy and white, the pond has been frozen for a week. Catkins dangle and dance from the hazelnut tree hinting of spring and lambs tails. But for now, growth in the bulbs has paused, and the garden sleeps.

It’s January. Half of our friends are off skiing. We are pining to join them, but the kids schedules are complicated so like everyone else we slink around under grey skies that turn violet at sunset and hint of snow. Pub quiz’s and outings may tempt us out, but by half past four I’m itching to secure the chain is on the front door and drawn the heavy curtains closed. Gianni and I snuggle under blankets and watch old films trying not to watch the news.

For the cognoscenti the weeks between New Year and St Valentine’s are special , not for diets or dry January, or even ticking down to play in the snow. I have been squirrelling away old jam jars for a while, just in case the urge gets me. Another broken sleep- it’s now or never. The itch is upon me- it’s now.

The early starters have already swooped. The green crates in Waitrose are empty. Are we too late?

‘When are they next in?’ I ask

The shop assistant checks his iPad-

‘There are no more deliveries forecast. Funny though, you are not the first person to ask today…’

‘What?’ The hunt is on.

‘Quick’ I hiss to Gianni, ‘let’s go to Secretts Farmshop-they may have them’ I whisper lest we be overheard.

Secretts Farmhouse is a gourmands paradise. Ceiling to floor delicacies- cheeses, chocolates, wines, small batch chill sauces, towards the back, the fruit and vegetables laid out like an old fashioned groceries- bright shiny and tempting.

But there in the middle is what we are looking for- a pyramid of Seville oranges, bags of pectin infused sugar and details of how to enter the Annual Secretts Marmalade competition.

Two brown paper bags, 2 bags of sugar later, and I am ready.

‘They used to call me Paddington at Uni because I had marmalade sandwiches at early morning rowing outings’ says Gianni, and then ‘when I go sailing I like to take a jar of F&M’s marmalade’

‘Are you throwing down the gauntlet? I say

So, I’ve not made Seville marmalade on the Aga before, and it turns out that perhaps what I have made in the past is Orange jam not Seville orange marmalade which is a whole different beast. I spend the afternoon pouring over cookbooks and in the end decided on a hybrid – Delia’s proportions, method part vintage Aga cookbook method, part Ask Charlie with extra ingredients; then our special ingredients love stirred in from me and a little Gianni magic- whisky and spiced rum.

Inside our house, all is aglow in a hive of activity. It’s like Halloween but with the scent of bitter oranges, whisky and spiced rum rather than pumpkins, and the hubble-bubble of sugar at a rolling boil.

As midnight ticks into the next day, the first batch of marmalade is ready – a mere 6 assorted jars. The shreds are suspended in golden glow of marmalade amber (with a hint of gherkin, mint sauce, branston pickle or horse radish) .

I try a little. Oh My.

I am hopping around dying for Gianni to have a first taste, but he is already in bed with cleaned teeth.

So I have to wait until next day – fresh bread, butter and homemade marmalade. It was worth it for Gianni’s face, eyes popping in appreciation. The taste? Sweetness, then an explosive burst of citrus and a hint of either whisky or rum. Ginger next time? It is the King of Preserves.

And now Gianni, suddenly exposed connoisseur of Marmalade reveals a thin veil of territorial jealous. He won’t sacrifice a single pot to the Secretts competition. Me, I am puffed to bits with pride

So to make your own-

2 lbs of Seville oranges

2 lemons

4 lb pectin sugar

4 pints of water

Slosh of spirit to taste

My hybrid method

1. Put water and citrus in pot A, bring to boil then pop in cool oven for 3 hours until the fruits look as if they have imploded. Meanwhile put sugar in a deep pot B and leave to warm on Aga top

2. Place muslin bag on colander, suspend colander on pot B Scoop outsides of citrus and place into muslin bag. Some will drip into the sugar.

3. Carefully scrape any remain pith off the skin until you can see the peel pores and add to muslin bag.

4. Tie muslin bag, put in with the orange water in Pot A, bring to boil then leave in cool oven for an hour. Meanwhile cut orange skin into shreds, add to warming sugar in pot B

5. Squeeze out goo (pectin) as much as you can from muslin bag into the orange water Pot A

6. Add orange water to warming sugar and shredded rind (Pour pot A into pot B). Slowly bring to the boil and then once on a rapid boil time 15 minutes.

7. Test for setting point (wrinkles and if you draw finger through it sides do not meet), boil until reached

8. Leave to cool for ten minutes so shreds do not rise to the top, add alcohol if required, but don’t go too mad or you will dilute the setting point.

9. Put in sterilised jam jars

Charlie’s method:

Secretts farm shop https://www.secretts.co.uk